On the week end, when the hot and humid Venetian weather only leaves you the choice to hit the beach, we normally don’t go to Alberoni on the Lido as it’s too far away from our wharf. Fortunately, there is another “un-touristy” (what doesn’t mean unvisited) beach in Venice, the Venetian beach by definition: Baccan on the island Sant’Erasmo.
Motor boats of every kind, size and length are strung together like the pearls of a necklace, and with tanned Venetians on board, alongside the shore. Now and then you’ll see some of the international “big brothers” pass by in the direction of the Bocca del Lido and thus the open sea: very impressing and frightening at the same time when you consider the difference in size to the “nutshells” anchored on the shore.
Baccan may not be the cleanest beach (considering the algae and some abandoned plastic bottles), but offers enough space and culinary satisfaction in a little beach bar and the Bar Tedeschi.
The island isn’t short on history either: The Torre Massimiliana, built by the Austrians in 1843/44 and in summertime the location of an artichoke “party”, is right behind the Bar Tedeschi, hidden by some trees. Yes, artichokes. Sant’Erasmo is known for it’s artichoke cultivation and has numerous consumers in the lagoon!
In case you wonder why some people are standing in knee high water at a more or less 50 m distance from the shore gazing at the bottom of the sea as if they were searching for their wedding ring: the Venetians use the trip to the beach to catch their dinner. Fresh clam shells “vongole” and the gastronomic speciality: cappelunghe.
